I’d arrived early in the summer season. The landscape beyond the station remained unmarked by man. No roads, no buildings, no power lines, no footprints. It’s exactly what Scott and his men saw when they arrived on January 17, 1912, hoping to claim the Pole but instead finding a dark flag stuck in the ice, left there by the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, with an attached note claiming the glory of “first.” I wished that I could see the very spot, but the ice shifts roughly sixty metres a year. It’s now lost, buried some four miles away.
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